"Go fot it, Boss!"

South African ANC leader Jacob Zuma is suing Jonathan Shapiro and the Sunday Times for 7-million Rand for a cartoon Shapiro made earlier this year. In the cartoon, Shapiro (who uses the name Zapiro) portrayed Zuma unbuckling his belt as he prepares to rape the figurative Lady Justice. She is held down by Zuma allies. one saying: “Go for it, boss!” Mr Zuma and Mr Shapiro confronted one another live on radio on Thursday morning, Dec 18. Mr Zuma said it is up to the courts to decide where a line needs to be drawn and whether the cartoon was a libelous act, or not.He said he decided to Mr Shapiro because: "Even in places where I've been found not guilty, he continues to find me guilty. He can't be right. He's totally out of order," said a firm Zuma at South Africa's Talk Radio 702. But Mr Shapiro called to the studio during the show and said Mr Zuma was paying "lip-service to freedom of expression". "I am a columnist, a visual columnist. I comment on what you do and what you say. And you are a public figure. You are the one with the power, not me," he declared. "And you just turn it on its head and act the victim." Mr Zuma, favourite to become president after general elections next year, has denied charges of graft, money-laundering and racketeering. Shapiro said he used Lady Justice to represent the South African judicial system, adding that the figure is recognised as a symbol of justice all over the world. In a letter Zuma (below, right) threatens to take the cartoonist to a South-African court if he does not pay Zuma 7 million Rand within 2 weeks.

Visit Shapiro's official website

http://www.zapiro.com

(Info and pics, ft.com, zapiro.com, telegraaf.nl)

Corruption is still very much alive in America’s midwest

In 2002 Democrat Rod Blagojevich told voters in the American state of Illinois (where the huge city of Chicago is located) that, if elected governor, he would “end business as usual,” the voters knew exactly what he meant.

He was referring to the state’s long history of legislators, judges, congressmen, lawmakers, mayors and former governors haunted by corruption allegations. His predecessor, George Ryan, is currently serving a 6,5 years term in an Illinois state prison for corruption and abuse of power convictions. Three years after being re-elected, Blagojevich is forced to defend himself against charges of corruption and wrongdoing. Just a week after Blagojevich was linked to a scandal involving a teachers’ pension fund, he was arrested last Monday for allegations that he tried to ‘sell Obama’s vacant senate seat’.

Two Chicago television stations, WLS-Tv and WBBM-Tv, as well as The Associated Press announced they have copy’s of transcripts in which the governor is quoted as saying ‘I've got this thing and it's f------ golden and, uh, uh, I'm just not giving it up for f------ nothing. I'm not gonna do it." He meant, as the governor who appoints the next senator to replace Barack Obama, it gave him a strong position for negotiations and demands and he expected favours if Obama's team wanted their candidate to be appointed. Basically, it appears that the son of a Serbian steel worker expected a ministerial post, an ambassadorship or chairing a charity funded by Warren Buffet or Bill Gates if he would pick Obama’s favourite candidate to replace the president-elect in the senate, Valerie Jarrett, a long-time friend and confidante of Barack Obama and currently one of his chief advisors.

The Obama Senate seat scheme is only one of the allegations lodged against the two-term governor, whose administration has been under investigation for alleged "pay to play" patronage practices for years. The complaint claims Blagojevich tried to extort the owners of the Tribune company to fire editors at the Chicago Tribune, and to withhold $8 million of state funds to a children's hospital in hopes of extracting a $50,000 campaign contribution from one of its executives. Blagojevich, who came into office in 2002 with promises to clean up the state's culture of graft, made no comment Tuesday during a bail hearing where he was released on his own recognizance. But late in the day his lawyer Sheldon Sorosky told reporters that the governor "is very surprised and certainly feels that he did not do anything wrong...a lot of this is just politics." The investigation is led by U.S. Attorney Patrick Fitzgerald, known nationally for heading the Washington, DC probe into who blew the cover of CIA operative Valerie Plame.

Although Obama promised change and 'clean politics', this week illustrates once again that Illinois, and Chicago in particular, is still the heart of America's corruption. Rod Blagojevich will probably just be another name in a long list of politicians, lawmakers and judges who could not keep personal and business interests separated.

(Wikipedia.org, zimbio.com, time.com, apnews.myway.com)

Mumbai under attack

Having lived and worked in Mumbai for a while you can not imagine how surprised and shocked I was when my London home phone rang last Wednesday. I just came back from work and was considering whether I should go to the gym or join my friend for a movie. Then my phone rang and it was my old friend Rohan, who lives in North-Mumbai. ‘Turn on your TV, you are not going to believe this’ was old he said. When I turned on the BBC I saw the Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai’s posh Colaba area was attacked. The impossible had happened.

Ever since I had arrived in Mumay, this hotel is a place I came at least one a week, to meet friends for drinks, to use their excellent business centre or travel agency, to have a bit in their nice ‘Golden Dragon’ restaurant or zip a Long island ice tea in the Harbour Bar, which was India’s first licensed bar in 1903. It’s the hotel where I stayed with my family last Christmas and the place where I first went on a date after I had moved to Mumbai. I attended weddings there (right), business events and birthday party's.

'What’s happening?’ I asked Rohan, being in a state of complete disbelief. But before he could answer another reporter appeared in front of a very familiar restaurant, café Leopold’s. ‘Gunmen opened fire at the crowd less than two hours ago. More than 70 people have reportedly been killed across town.’ Leopold’s! A place I will always remember, treasure and love. I took my friend David there, had a crazy time with my friend Joseph when he came over from London and many, many nights I came down for their cheap beer and enjoyed the tourist gossip. To see that place smeared with blood and the smell of death, it is surreal. These things do not happen in Mumbai, India’s biggest city and commercial capital. And certainly not in the posh deep south of Mumbai, Colaba. The West End of Mumbai, the Manhattan of India. The Taj, the Oberoi or Leopolds, places where you meet friends, lovers, tourists, businessmen, royalty and the Bollywood A-list. They were safe havens, vibrant, alive, cosmopolitan. Watching the sunset at the Dome bar, a beer at Leo’s or a dance at Polly Esther’s, and going in between places by foot or a short rickshaw drive. No security, no guards, no metal detectors. Suddenly that does not seem so logical anymore. Strolling the streets of Colaba at 3 am, like I did dozens of times, was one of my favourite activities, since the climate encouraged me to live at night.

After having seen the images on TV and Rohan had explained me the facts, I admitted to myself I hated this happened after I had left Mumbai. As a journalist you feel a natural desire to follow and analyse the news, if not to be part of it. But that feeling was not there for long. next day, on Thursday morning, I had my Australian friend Richard on the phone. He has been living in Mumbai for three years and has seen it all. ‘It’s different man, I have never seen this before. You can feel it,’ he says ‘Nobody goes out unless you have to and all the tourists seemed to have disappeared. And this time it seems to be targeted at us.’ He confirmed what the newspapers were saying; the captors were looking for people with American and British passports. Nevertheless, random Indians were attacked too. The extremists had opened fire at CST Station, formerly known as Victoria Station, in the heart of the city. In the station hall (below) several people were killed and hurt by a rain of bullets. ‘I think things will change man’ Richard continues ‘the next couple of months will be full of hostilities. Hindu’s versus Muslims, Indians versus foreigners, Maharashtra’s versus North-Indians, and so on. I am not gonna walk around drunk in public anymore and Michiel, I am afraid I will have to stay in Bandra and Colaba all the time.’

I am afraid Richard is going to be right. I remember I visited the Indonesian Island of Bali shortly after the second bombings in 2005 and the island was completely empty. Not that I think 19 million people will suddenly disappear, but it is expected that American, European and Australian visitors especially the backpackers and expats’ families, will prefer to stay in other parts of India (like Goa or Agra) or even other countries, and they will avoid Mumbai in the near future. His second point I was not too sure about. Last Wednesday and Thursday not only westeners, christians and jews died, but also hindu's, muslims, sikhs and buddhists were among the victims. It would be naive, however, to think no more relgion and state originated riots and killings are going to take place, not to mention the risk of attempts by certain certain political movements, the local right wing party Shiv Sena in particular, to exploit the current situation and try to gain political benefits.

I guess I was lucky to have lived and worked in this vibrant, lively city in a time I could roam around freely, did whatever I liked and mingled with people from all walks of life. Seeing all these familiar streets and buildings on TV makes me miss Mumbai with all its people in it more than ever, but at the same time I realise I am lucky to be far, far away in a safe London.

Body Worlds: The Mirror of Time

Real bodies on display; the process of ageing explained

About six weeks ago, an advert for ‘a museum experience like you never had before’ caught my attention in Brussels and when I read the exhibition was coming to London I decided to give it a go. Last Saturday Set in the ageing O2 arena (the former Millennium Dome, in Greenwich) and it turned out to be one of the most impressive things I had ever seen. I realised Gunther von Hagens’ controversial and much talked about ‘Body Worlds’ exhibition had finally reached London.

In ‘Body Worlds & The Mirror of Time’ – as it officially is called – authentic human specimens, transformed through plastination, show the form, beauty, function and potential of the human body. Real human bodies, donated by organisations and individuals, are on display and it made me realise that we are not ‘one’, but actually consist of thousands of little organs, body parts, connections and processes. Without oxygen no brain function, without veins no heart beat and without muscles no movement. At any stage of our life cycle, the human body experiences changes and milestones. The changes that take place as the body moves through different experiences in its lifetime: at its most radiant and as it changes, matures and finally wanes. The exhibition shows the complexity and vulnerability of the human body through anatomical studies of the body in distress, disease and optimal health. The effects smoking and disease have on the human body are explained and illustrated. And what happens to your body if you drink away your problems for twenty years? What causes migraine and why do people get fat and what kind of effect do mental issues have on your physical state? All these questions are answered by real bodies, organs and other body parts.

German born Von Hagens, a scientist, is the inventor of plastination – the anatomical specimen preservation method that makes the presentation of aesthetic anatomy possible. Through ‘Plastination’, the post mortal body is transformed into spectacular anatomical figures – plastinates – that allow the public to see the human body as it has never been seen before.
As Gunther von Hagen (who likes to be called ‘the Plastinator’) recently said on BBC news ‘Body Worlds invites the visitor to navigate the inner terrains and outer borders of the human landscape.’ One of the most interesting bodies on display is the basketball player. This plastinate derives from the most muscular body donor plastinated to date. It demonstrates the skin modeling muscles of our body in a dynamic posture. While looking at it I suddenly did not feel so attracted to a fit body anymore.. The intestines have been removed in order to show the large back muscles at the rear of the abdominal cavity. The urinary bladder rests at the bottom of the small pelvis. The skull has been opened to reveal the brain.

Gunther von Hagens’ Body Worlds is an unique anatomical exhibition around the world, stemming from an established body donation program and using donated bodies. The bodies are currently also on display in Houston, Salt Lake City and Brussels.

(pictures by myself, and were - and need to be - taken with the permission of Von Hagen's management)

London to New York

This giant telescope doesn't actually cross the deep soil, but it does allow citizens from New York and London to see what is happening in each other's city. And in live video. Not through a tunnel, but thanks to a transatlantic Internet connection with high definition cameras on both ends. While on the banks of the river Thames it's cocktail hour, New Yorkers are just finishing their lunch. Londoners have to pay 1 pound to look at the big Apple, New Yorkers can look at Londoners for free. The idea was created by British artist Paul St. George, early 2008.

Once again Russian questions will not be answered

A few days ago there was speculation that the trial of the three men charged with the murder of the Russian journalist Anna Politkovskaya would be open to the public and the press. Delighted and thrilled, for a minute I could not believe what I read. Was there justice in Russia after all? Could everyone finally see and hear what has really happened to the Douma critic when she was shot on October 7 2006 in the lobby of her Moscow apartment building?

It was naive to think that. It would have been too good to be true. Today a Russian judge announced the trial of the three suspects will now be closed to the public. When the trial opened on Monday the judge had said it would be open, but Judge Yevgeny Zubov reversed his decision on Wednesday, saying jurors had refused to enter the courtroom in the presence of the media. Does that mean jurors decide how transparent a court hearing is and not a law or a lawmaker? Mrs Anna Politkovskaya’s family criticised the judge's decision: "Of course we do not like the closed trial. There is nothing wrong with having journalists there," Ms Politkovskya's son Ilya said. "I am very disappointed. I think this trial should have been open, not only because all trials should be, but because she was a public figure and the public should know the circumstances of her killing," said Karinna Moskalenko, a lawyer for Ms Politkovskaya's family (BBC). Mrs Politkovskaya was the 13th journalist to be killed in a contract-style killing in Russia during Vladimir Putin's period as president, according to the US-based Committee to Protect Journalists (CNN).

'Farce'
The three men who went on trial on Monday are former policeman Sergey Khadzhikurbanov and two Chechen brothers, Dzhabrail and Ibragim Makhmudov. It is expected the rest of the trial will be secretive and that there won’t be too many legal and public checks and balances. A court spokesman said ‘he could not specify exactly what charges the men were facing. After a verdict will be reached this will be made public.’ Isn’t that a bit too late? Another man, a former KGB officer, also appeared before the military court. Pavel Ryaguzov is charged with abuse of power and extortion.

Meanwhile, journalists and western diplomats say Rustam Makhmudov - who is believed to have been the actual murderer - and the person or persons who ordered Mr Politkovskaya's killing remain at large. The Moscow based reporter Grigory Pasko asked openly "How can you say the investigation is complete if you have neither the killer nor the person who ordered it in the dock?"
(Sources: BBC Europe News website bbc.co.uk/news, CNN Archive, cnn.com Intern. version, Reuters, Adfero, DirectNews)

Nazi Germany: 'The Kindly Ones' ?

Book lovers in France and Germany can not stop talking about Jonathan Littell’s latest book ‘The Kindly Ones’. The novel takes you on a 1000 page journey through Hitler’s Third Reich, from the start till the very end; Hitler coming to power, 1933’s Kristalnacht in Germany, the occupation of Poland, the invasion of Russia and the mass murders in Auschwitz. Critics say the book is ‘scary’ and ‘intimidating’, because the writer manages to create some understanding for the situation the main character is in.

The reader experiences the Second World war through the fictional memories of an articulate SS officer named Maximilien Aue Why did he not say no? Why did he follow the Nazi regime so passively? Passage after passage, the reader starts to understand more and more of the why’s and how’s in Germany’s 1930’s.

Many readers were not only impressed but also shocked by the Littell’s writing style. "It was crazy to experience that without noticing it, you are slowly dragged into the head of an active, convinced Nazi. He is called Max and you are taken on the journey that is his life. You even start to sympathise with him and understands why he does certain things. At a certain moment you think, no! wait, I do not want to understand this. I do not want to make myself feel like I am justifying the holocaust," says an Amsterdam based journalist, continuing ‘Why did ‘Max’ undertake certain actions, why did he make certain choices: it suddenly seems quite rational and understandable. You get an intense inside look into the mind and thinking of a convinced Nazi, and that is pretty scary.’

‘The Kindly Ones’ was written in French and was published in France in 2006 as ‘Les Bienveillantes’. The English translation will be released on March 3, 2009. Littell (New York, 1967) said he was inspired to write the novel after seeing a photograph of a Soviet partisan being executed by the Nazi's. He traces the original inspiration for the book from seeing Claude Lanzmann's film Shoah , an acclaimed documentary about the Holocaust, in 1989. Jonathan began research for the book in 2002 and visited many of the sites described in the book. He went to Berlin several times, visited the former concentration camp of Auschwitz, went down to Hitler’s summer villa in the Austrian mountains, hiked outside St. Petersburg (the former Stalingrad) where Germans soldiers suffered a slow and painful defeat by the Red Army, in horrible weather conditions. Littell claims that he undertook the creation of his main character, Aue, by imagining what he himself would have done had he been born in pre-war Germany and had become a Nazi.

In some ways this novel reminded me of another book which caused quite some controversy, especially after it gained world wide attention in 1957. Primo Levi’s ‘Is this a man?’ But with one fundamental difference. Since the Second World War ended most attention, by far, has gone to the victims and the heroes from the resistance movements, understandably. A story, seen from a Nazi’s point of view and seen through his eyes, in which sympathy and understanding are not avoided, is unique - if not, never shown before.

Les Bienveillantes won the prestigious French book price Prix Concourt in and not much later Littell was awarded the Grand Prix du Roman of the Academie Francaise.

It is a long way to the White House but 'yes we can'

I watched the election night yesterday with a bunch of Americans and must say, it stays a fascinating country. Having visited it many times and having made myself familiar with the values, attitudes and morals of most of the states, I experienced something unique last night.

So yeah, it really happened! Barack Hussein Obama II is MR GLOBAL PRESIDENT! I am so curious what he is going to do and what he is going to stand for. Will he turn out to be a visionary and a global leader or just another practical politician who sells himself to corporate America? Shall we see big mamas and disillusioned hoody’s on the street in a few years chanting 'I gave that motherf..er my first vote ever and he raised taxes and cut spending on health and education! Traitor!'

Let’s hope not. I can not wait actually and dare to say I am positive. And whatever he is going to do, he sure gave us one of the best TV nights in recent history. That means, whatever the policies he is going to practice there will be enough input for us journalists all around the globe. My colleagues seemed in some sort of hysterical mental state today, running and jumping around the office, showing each other blogs and the front pages of newspapers and going for a two hours celebration lunch…
Thanks Obama! I really did feel the change at my own desk today. 'Yes we can' !

Due to my busy schedule and full time job for a London based magazine, I hardly post anything here anymore.

Feel free to get in touch though. Perhaps you want to receive some writing samples or you would like me to take a look at your work. You can contact me if you want me as a proofreader, writer, editor, PA, translator, researcher or reporter.

michielwil@hotmail.com

Thanks for stopping by !

Are we surrounded by the deceased ?

This impressive, non-edited picture makes me wonder 'do Ghosts and spirits exist after all'? Or is it just Patrick Swayze in the Return of 'Ghosts'? It certainly looks like Whoopie.

Due to copy rights I could not copy/paste the picture here, but follow the link below to cross over to the other side:

http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/article1594170.ece

Legal practice in Aceh

According to Sharia law, a woman is given the lash, in Aceh this morning. A judge found her guilty of adultery (she cheated on her husband), which is a crime in this part of Indonesia.
un.nl. Picture: ANP/AFP

Death penalty for a beer or four

A court in the Iranian capital Tehran has sentenced a 22-year-old man to death for violating the Islamic Republic's ban on drinking alcohol several times, CNN reports on its website.

Under Iran's Islamic sharia law, a person who is caught drinking for a fourth time and confesses faces possible capital punishment, even though legal experts say executions for this offence are very rare. "My client had been drinking at home for a fourth time and he made some disturbance in the street and police arrested him," his lawyer, Aziz Nokandei, told the ISNA news agency. Nokandei said his client, identified only with his first name Mohsen, had confessed and expressed remorse. He can appeal against the verdict within 20 days under Iranian law and the head of the judiciary can also intervene. First-time violators of Iran's strict alcohol laws face possible lashes, fines or jail.

Iran has stepped up the number of executions in the country since the authorities launched a clampdown on "immoral behaviour" in July, arresting scores of accused drug smugglers, murderers, rapists and other criminals. European governments and Western rights groups have criticised Iran for the executions, usually carried out by hanging. Iran has dismissed the criticism and accused the West of double standards.

Last week, Iran's judiciary chief ordered a halt to public executions in Iran unless they have his approval. While those sentenced to death would still be hanged behind prison walls, the move by Ayatollah Mahmoud Hashemi-Shahroudi appeared designed to lower the public profile of Iran's increasing number of executions. Murder, adultery, rape, armed robbery, apostasy and drug trafficking are all punishable by death under Iran's sharia law, practised since Iran's 1979 Islamic revolution. London based rights group Amnesty International says Iran has one of the highest rates of executions in the world (cnn.com/news24/bbc.co.uk, pic: http://www.triton.studver.uu.nl/)

Natalee Holloway breakthrough

One of the most impressive pieces of crime reporting I have ever seen was produced last week in the Netherlands. Dutch SBS journalist Peter R de Vries (peterrdevries.nl) showed the viewers a confession on camera by Joran van der Sloot, the main suspect in the notorious Natalee Holloway missing case. Peter R de Vries used a low profile criminal who is known in the gamble circuit in the east of Holland (where Joran currently lives) to befriend the Holloway-suspect and after weeks and weeks of partying, smoking lots of marihuana and one gamble night after the other de Vries' undercoverman brought up the topic and Joran made his remarkable comments in a car, payed and rent by de Vries and full of camera's and bugs.

Dumped at sea He claims Natalee passed out when he was having sex with her on the beach. He was not sure if she was still alive so he called a friend who came over and together they concluded she was death. Joran's friend used his tourist boat to drop the body somewhere at sea. When his 'friend' asked him 'but she is morta, death, isn't she?' Joran answers 'of course'. Probably most remarkable, and at the same time scary, is Joran's lack of emotions. He literally says on camera 'I decided to continue my life normally, I don't feel guilty for a second'.

Alabama schoolgirl Natalee Holloway disappeared in 2005 at the island of Aruba, in the Carribean. Joran van der Sloot was the last person who had seen her alive and was arrested three times by the police but charges were dropped when judges ruled there was not enough evidence.

See for yourself how Natalee's mother, Beth Holloway, came to the Netherlands and watched the latest developments with De Vries and millions of Dutch viewers (English subtitles)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYjZwop0Y94&feature=related

The news in America http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3ZzHHdX87k

Overthink your Bali sins on top of Mount Bromo

Ever been to Club Med? Welcome to its cheaper sibling: Bali. Arriving at this middle sized island in central Indonesia is experiencing how neo-colonialism works. Why show interest in their culture if we just want to lie on the beach the whole day? Trying local dishes or drinks? No way, McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Coca-Cola is what we want! And what is that weird local language? I bet they gossip about us all the time. Hello, speak English please! Be happy we still find our way to your little island after the 2002 and 2005 bombings: the Balinese should be happy we still want to spend our well earned pounds here. They should be honoured if they can serve us, drive us around, massage us, guide us. Oh please, we don’t wanna visit that 300 years old temple anyway, crush it and replace it by a Holiday Inn or a Burger King!

At the Indonesian island of Bali, the differences in wealth, spending and lifestyles couldn’t be bigger. Since many tour operators in Europe and especially Australia offer cheap ‘relax and do nothing but eating, drinking and swimming holidays’ most tourists are not interested in the local temples, rich culture, diverse kitchen or wonderful scenery the island has to offer. I was shocked by the way many (older) tourists handle locals: with suspicion, arrogance and screaming English, German, Dutch or Italian at them (like they do understand what you see if you speak louder), not to mention the unhealthy sex industry. Bali villages such as Seminyak and Legian are known for older visitors, mainly from Germany, Switzerland, Italy and the UK, looking for a young summer love. I still feel a bit ashamed of being a European if I see a huge, white, old, hairy creature grapping the hand of a thirty years younger, tented, skinny, smaller local boy, mainly interested in the expensive hotel room, some hard cash or a meal at McDonalds. Because that is what it is: many young, poor, Hindu Balinese (so not welcome in the rest of Indonesia, which is mainly Muslim) idealise and romanticise the lifestyle of the tourists. The younger generation of visitors does not differ to much either: although they obviously not come to mingle with locals, for many it is just another party resort. The idea that it is in Asia (not in Thailand, for a change) and an old hippie resort dating back to the 1960´s give it some extra special. Many backpackers make Bali their first or second stop on a trip or during a gap year, mostly when travelling between the ‘safe zones’ Australia, Thailand or Europe.

The druggies days of the sixties are over
The Balinese parties are infamous and not to miss, especially the ‘full moon fiestas’: on the beach, with your feet in the sand, strong cocktails and a crowd with a vibe. Surfing, swimming, watching and be watched, crashing and sleeping are the main activities in the city of Kuta, on the south side of the island, where as good as good as all backpackers occupy the cheap hostels (2-10 pounds per night), many restaurants (50p-4 pounds for a large main course) and the funky clubs (no entrance fees, drinks from 80p for a beer to 3 pounds for a long island ice tea). Most backpackers or older hippie’s who decide to stay for a while rent a motorbike, and why shouldn’t you, for less than 4-8 pounds a day? It is a great way to explore the island and after all, Kuta seems a place you do not want to leave: once you have accepted the way Bali and Kuta work, it is very tempting to mingle in the party scene and be part of what it is all about: sun, beach, sex, booze and rock and roll. No drugs though, trying to get them is not worth the risk, since the Indonesian government has adopted the policies on drugs as for example practiced in Thailand and Singapore. Although in general bribing is the first door on your way out in Indonesia, this does definitely not count for drugs. Only some old hippies, most of them arrived in the late 60´s, who own dive centres or a bar, are secretly allowed to keep gardening, although their position is not longer safe either. In recent years, several tourists, mainly Australian, were locked up for ten to fifteen years because they were in the possession of weed, LSD or Ecstasy. Most notoriously, the case of Australian model Schapelle Corby who is still fighting in appeal to her 15 years verdict for 4.1 gram of marihuana. Just remember some basic rules: only carry cash with you (rent a small safe in your ho(s)tel for your passport, ticket, credit card), don’t accept drinks from strangers, especially from locals (drugging does occur) and if you like someone more than just a friend, do not even think of unprotected sex, since HIV is on the rise in Bali. Done partying and don’t want to drink away your hangover again? Perhaps the time has come to explore the rest of Bali. Bali is so picturesque that you could be fooled into thinking it was a painted backdrop: rice paddies trip down hillsides like giant steps, volcanoes soar through the clouds, the forests are lush and tropical, and the beaches are lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

Recent tragic events have scared away many of those who simply saw Bali as a place for cheap beer. Travellers are advised to check with their local embassy or travel advisory for up-to-date information regarding travel to Bali. A terrorist attack, by a group called Jemaah Islamiyah, took place in 2002 killing 202 people (including 164 foreigners, 88 Australians). A smaller scene was repeated in 2005. Although it is normally safe, the island could be a target in the future. Nevertheless, the beautiful beaches with the warm ocean waves crashing up on to the white sand and the friendly locals with their unique smile make this an island many return to. Bali is one of the 13,000 islands making up the Republic of Indonesia and is located 8-9 degrees south of the equator between Java to the west, and Lombok to the East. The volcanoes which dominate the island are surrounded by the vast variety of tropical plants and terraces of rice crops, making a picturesque setting that takes your breath away. The variety and number of temples seem endless demonstrating the depth of Bali's history. But if you want to visit a really impressive volcano, travel to Java by bus and boat (20-30 hours). Do not fall asleep though, some fellow travellers would not mind to help you get rid of some extra luggage). A diverse, intense and interesting journey. Right through central Indonesia’s rural countryside, straight to the biggest island of Indonesia: welcome to Java.

Once saddled with a reputation as a poverty-ridden hell hole, Java mutated into an Asian boom island in not much more than a decade. It is one the most densely populated parts of the planet and the cities are incredibly crowded (128 million people on the size of England), but there are vast stretches of open country in between. An island of smoking volcanoes and incredible fertility, an island of exceptional history, culture and contrasts. No one fails to be impressed by this remarkable island. However, an earthquake struck Java on 27 May 2006, causing widespread destruction and thousands of fatalities in and south of Yogyakarta city, in central Java. Another natural disaster happened two months later: on 17 July 2006 a tsunami hit the southern coast of Java. The town of Pangandaran was devastated, causing many fatalities and leaving several thousand more people missing or displaced. Relief and aid work are ongoing and there are many volunteering options for travellers who want to stay for a while. And only last month, in February, the Jakarta region was hit with devastating floods causing extensive damage and displacement.

Breathtaking views from Mount Bromo

Probolinggo, on the north coast of Java, is a small, poor, forgotten town where you end up if you arrive by boat and a bus trip from Bali. Not many English speaking people can be found here: the tourists are only found high in the sky, preferring the airwaves when going to the capital Jakarta or the 2nd largest city Surabaya. It's about two hours to Ngadisari, and here I decided to go to the active volcano Broom, which entailed all night travel: first by vehicle, then by horseback until we eventually reached the crater area before dawn. It's a fairly easy 4-mile hike to the foot of Mount Bromo. Alternatively, you can hire a pony to do the drudge work for you. Private cars are not allowed inside the caldera. You can join the pony package at R50.000 per person (3 pounds) but, of course like in any third world country, prices are negotiable. Bromo is set amidst a large caldera. To see the crater itself you must ascend numerous hewn steps until you finally make it up to the level where you can view inside. At the time I was there (June 2006), a red lava glow could be seen in several places near the bottom. Hiking around a volcano is often very slow going. At one point I noticed what appeared to be a distant smoke column. Every few minutes, a new burst of dark smoke would appear in the distant horizon. It was an eruption from the nearby volcano Semeru. Indonesia is loaded with volcanoes! Mount Bromo really is a live volcano that erupts with disturbing regularity: in 2004, two tourists were killed and five injured when the mountain spit out molten rock as far as 300 feet from the crater. And eruptions are not uncommon, the volcano woke up in 2000, 1995, 1984, 1983 and 1980, as well.

Yeah, it is Pakjesavond! ('Pakjes-what?!')

Today, it is the 5th of December, which means it is ‘Pakjesavond’ in my home country Holland! Sinterklaas (also called Sint-Nicolaas in Dutch and Saint Nicolas in French) is a holiday tradition in the Netherlands and Belgium, celebrated every year on Saint Nicholas' eve (December 5).

Traditionally, in The Netherlands adults started to give each other presents on the evening of the 5th; then older children were included and today in my country sometimes even the youngest get presents on the evening of December 5 (Saint Nicholas' eve), known as Sinterklaasavond or Pakjesavond (present evening). After the singing of traditional Sinterklaas songs, there will be a loud knock on the door, and a sack full of presents is found on the doorstep. Alternatively - some improvisation is often called for - the parents 'hear a sound coming from the attic' and then the bag with presents is "found" there. Some parents manage to "convince" Sinterklaas to come to their home personally.

Sinterklaas traditionally arrives each year in November by steamboat from Spain, and is then paraded through the streets, welcomed by cheering and singing children. Invariably, this event is broadcast live on national television in the Netherlands and Belgium. His 'Zwarte piet' helpers throw candy and small, round ginger bread-like cookies, 'kruidnoten' or 'pepernoten', into the crowd. The children welcome him by singing traditional Sinterklaas songs. Sinterklaas also visits schools, hospitals and shopping centres. After this arrival all towns with a dock have their own intocht van Sinterklaas (arrival of Sinterklaas)
Another aspect of "pakjesavond" are the small poems people make. When children become too old to believe in Sinterklaas, they will be introduced to a different form of entertainment during this night. People will write small personal poems for friends and family usually accompanied by a small gift or candy. This way it is also entertaining for parents and other adults. Students usually write teasing and embarrassing stories for each other. But this is expected and is received in good spirit, so it is usually good fun!

Sinterklaas is the basis for the North American figure of Santa who later was 're-designed' to match a cola company's needs in the 20th Century. It was during the American War of Independence, that the Roman-Catholic inhabitants of New York, a former Dutch colonial town (‘New ) which had been swapped by the Dutch for other territories, reinvented their Sinterklaas tradition, who was regarded as an alternative for the "Irish Catholic" Saint Patrikc. The name Santa Claus is derived from older Dutch Sinte Klaas.

(www.wikipedia.org - www.sinterklaas.nl - www.sint.nl)